We had planned a trip to stay in Kielder Forest before everything shut down, and when we reorganised our plans Kielder was still shut. So we came to Proctor’s Stead https://www.proctorsstead.co.uk/ for a week of fabulous walks and cycling and the wonderful North East coast.
A short walk from the campsite into Craster and along the coast took us to the spectacular Dunstanburgh Castle. On the sea cliffs we could see nesting kittiwakes, huge grey fluffy fulmar chicks on the cliffs, and turnstones and oystercatchers on the beach.
Next morning we decided on a cycle ride to Bamburgh and estimated it to be about a 30km round trip. Turned out to be 51km, but really enjoyable nonetheless. The route was varied, following the coast for times and through quiet countryside roads as well. Lunch by the war memorial at Bamburgh and a quick call into Seahouses (busy with boat trips to the Farne Islands. A BBQ back at Herdy rounded off the day perfectly.
We tried to catch the bus. But buses are operating on half capacity so they don’t stop in little villages like Dunstan. So plans for a long coastal walk in tatters we made the obvious decision “let’s just walk there AND back”.
South along the amazing coastline, grumbling about the lack of rural buses, everything changed as we caught sight of a pod of four dancing dolphins also heading south.
The coast between Craster and Alnmouth is stunning with banks of rocky shore, cliffs, sandy coves and a beautiful coast hugging path. The Alnmouth end is spoiled a bit by a huge golf course (which always make walkers feel unwelcome), but the sun was shining brightly as we marched across the fairway hoping to avoid any mistimed golf balls. After lunch (sandwiches) we walked back on the sand as far as The Fishing Boat Inn, Boulmer, for a cold drink (friendly service and more sunshine). Arrived back at Herdy with tired feet. Another fabulous day out.
Thursday was misty and we were tired, so just a short 20km bike ride. Does that qualify as a rest day?
The Proctor’s Stead site was a perfect base for us. Small, quiet and nothing complicated. The lines of windbreak trees were perfectly placed to stop Herdy rattling in the sea breeze. Friendly staff and no intrusive rules.
We now have a proper two person routine for emptying the tanks, refilling with fresh water – quick efficient and stress free.
On our final day in the North East we chose a walk half on the coast and half inland. We followed the coastal path South as far as Sugar Sands before turning inland at Longhoughton. We had planned to pop in for a cuppa at Howick Hall (home of Earl Grey) but the £8 each entrance charge to the cafe and gardens we decided to pass and finished with hot chocolate and cake in Herdy.
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